Wednesday, April 23, 2008

NcStar Spotting Scope

I just stumbled upon a site that sells spotting scope. It looks like this NcStar could be your next travelling partner when you go birding far away from home.

"Nature has provided a multitude of beautiful surroundings for all of us to enjoy. NcStar brings you Spotting Scopes to view that beauty up close and personal. Our lenses are ground quality glass, and our prisms are MAK-4 Rated to ensure that the image being viewed is displayed with brilliant clarity. Our optics are multi coated to reduce reflection and to utilized as much external light as possible. All of this combined with a rugged exterior provide Binoculars, Spotting Scopes and Monoculars that you can rely on time after time. Enhance the world around you be viewing it with NcStar optics." - Riflescope-shop.com

NcStar 15-40x50 SPOTTING SCOPE/GREEN LENS WITH TRIPOD

NcStar 15-40x50 SPOTTING SCOPE/GREEN LENS WITH TRIPODFEATURES • High Quality Percision Ground Multi Coated Lenses for Clear and Crisp Image • External Quick Focus Knob • Protective Rubber Armor Outer Coating • Nitrogen Filled and O-Ring sealed • Built-In Sliding Sunshade • Includes soft carry case, neck strap, and lens caps




There are more scopes for you to select. Just click on the links.

Sunday, April 20, 2008

Nikon Coolpix 4500 Review

I have been using the Nikon Coolpix 4500 ever since I started digiscoping in 2003. One of the best camera model for digiscoping at that time.


Preview based on a production Nikon Coolpix 4500, Firmware v1.1

The new Coolpix 4500 was announced on May 29th, 2002 as part of a trio of new Coolpix digital cameras from Nikon. It is the step up in resolution and features for the now distinctive split-bodied Coolpix design. The 4500 carries on from the 995 (although its neat design is more like the 950 / 990). This camera has a four megapixel CCD sensor, four times optical zoom lens, an all metallic body and flush fitting pop-up flash unit. The camera is noticeably smaller and narrower than the 990 and 995 thanks to the use of a Nikon's EN-EL1 Lithium-Ion rechargeable battery.

Many people will consider this camera to be the true upgrade to the 990, in each previous succession of split bodied Coolpix digital cameras we saw in increase in resolution (1.2, 1.92, 3.14 megapixels). The 995 however offered only a few new features and a 4x optical zoom lens. It wasn't the four megapixel Coolpix most were expecting, this camera is.

Regional differences

Note that we had a European Coolpix 4500 for this preview article. The Europe (and Canada) model has a red stripe on the hand grip (on the left above), the US model has a green stripe (on the right above), otherwise the two are identical. Personally I prefer the red stripe which is such a part of Nikon's design history.


Heritage

The Coolpix 900/900s

The "9 series" range started back in 1998 with the 1.2 megapixel, 3x zoom, Nikon Coolpix 900 (E900), soon to be followed by the updated 900s (E910) this was the first time we saw the swivel design and also opened peoples eyes as to what a digital camera was capable of. I admit my first (real) digital camera was a Nikon Coolpix 900s.

The Coolpix 950

In 1999 came the 1.92 megapixel, 3x zoom, Coolpix 950, a completely re-engineered camera of a quality over and above what we'd seen in the 900. It was well received by reviewers and owners alike, despite some shortcomings (chromatic aberrations and a few non-ergonomic functions) it soon became the de facto 2 megapixel digital camera (and is still used for comparison purposes today). Many other 2 megapixel digital cameras came, despite some very close competition (Olympus C-2000Z & C-2020Z) the Coolpix remained the favourite prosumer digital camera.

The Coolpix 990

In 2000 we saw the 3.14 megapixel, 3x zoom, Coolpix 990. Not just a step forward in resolution the 990 had improved ergonomics, better build quality and a raft of new "prosumer" features which delighted both Coolpix aficionado's and new buyers alike. The 990 saw the introduction of the 5-area spot AF, focus confirmation, a new aperture diaphragm, USB connectivity, sharpness control, histogram and highlighting, fine tuneable white balance and many more. The 990 soon established itself as the top 3 megapixel consumer digital, the one all other manufacturers aimed to beat.

The Coolpix 995

2001 brought us the 3.14 megapixel, 4x zoom, Coolpix 995. Seen by many as an interim camera the 995 also stepped away from the 990's clean design to an arguably uglier and more complicated design. The 995 introduced several new features such as support for Compact Flash Type II (although not officially the IBM Microdrive) as well as the pop-up flash and a 4x optical zoom lens (which did come in for criticism by some). This evolution also saw the lens portion of the body changed from metal to plastic, again not a popular move with Nikonians.


www.dpreview.com - August 2002, Phil Askey

Friday, April 18, 2008

Fundamental Digiscoping Equipment

Fundamental Digiscoping Equipment

1. digital camera

2. spotting scope

3. sturdy tripod

4. camera - scope adapter

5. cable release

6. bracket


There are only 6 fundamental equipment that you need to get you into digiscoping. Just refer to the list above.


Digital camera.

Almost any digital camera will do but I suggest point-and-shoot with 3x - 4x optical zoom and a small diameter lens. The widely used camera previously are Nikon Coolpix 990, 995, 4500, P4, P5000 and P5100 . The other cameras which suits digiscoping are Olympus C7070. Make sure you have a few memory cards of large capacity like at least 1GB. Believe me, you need it because this hobby can be very addictive especially if you click on burst or continuous mode. Sometimes, you may even switch to movie mode and that will take more spaces on the memory card. So, carry a few with you since nowadays the cards are more affordable than a few years ago. Also, carry along some spare batteries. I have a Nikon Coolpix 4500 and a Casio QV-2900UX. My wife's Sony-Ericsson K810i with a 3MP camera works but quality suffers.


Spotting scope.

What is digiscoping without a spotting scope? There are many brands and models in the market. So, pick yours wisely. In my experience, buy a decent scope and try to avoid the cheap scopes. Do more research of a particular scope that you are interested in. Buy one that you can afford and do not burn a hole in your pocket. I am not asking you to buy the top range like Swarovski, Leica, Zeiss or Kowa but if you can afford it, why not? But if you are like me, who does not have much money to dispose, get a scope that do not have problem of chromatic aberration (purple fringe on subject). But if the issue is minimal it can be corrected later when processing the picture on the computer with photo editing software like Adobe Photoshop. I am using a Nikon Spotting Scope 65mm RAII(A) a.k.a. Nikon Sky and Earth 65mm with a 25x fixed eyepiece.


Sturdy tripod.

You really need a sturdy tripod. Why? Simply because a scope with the camera attached is not anything like a feather's weight. You have to buy a good tripod with a video head. I am using a Manfrotto tripod and video head based on Laurence's recommendation before I join the digiscoping circle.


Camera - scope adapter.

You can buy a universal adapter that fits any camera in case if you upgrade camera often. Like I said, things are cheaper as compared to last few years. Better get a universal adapter and get a light unit. Well, you can also hand held the camera on the eyepiece but make sure your hand does not shake.

Cable release.

I can't remember how much I pay for the cable release, but I know one of my cable comes along with the bracket that I ordered from Mr.Cheang who customize bracket and adapter. The cable does not cost much compared to other equipment. You will need this cable to minimize hand shake when pressing the shutter button on your camera.


Bracket.

A bracket is useful when you use a cable release to take pictures. You need this one. Somehow, some new camera - scope adapters are fitted with a cable release bracket.

Okay, I have finish with the fundamental equipment. The next thing you need is to process the pictures on the computer.


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